Makalu (8,485 m) is the fifth highest mountain considered to be the most difficult one in the world to climb. Only a few expeditions have been successful till now. in the world. It is an isolated peak, located just 22 miles southeast of Mt. Everest on the border between Nepal and China. Its size alone is impressive, but its structure looks like a perfect pyramid with four sharp ridges, making this mountain all more spectacular. Chomo Lonzo is another small peak of Makalu, rising just north of the higher summit, separated by a narrow saddle.
The climbing routes to Mt Makalu are categorized into 4 parts. The bottom part starts from the base of the West Face at 5,800 meters and climbs to the hanging ice-fall at 6,100 meters to the right part of the ice-fall. When we reach the base camp, our climbing Sherpa route will go further to fix ropes and ladders through the icefalls to Camp 1, and they will carry loads of equipment up the mountain.
The second part extends from the plateau above the ice-fall along 35 to 45-degree elevation’s rock up to 6,500 meters high. The next section is an ice-rock wall, 50 to 55 degrees steep & that extends to 7,400 meters in height. The last final section begins 70 to 75-degree elevation’s rock pillar, which leads to the west ridge at 8,000 meters height till to the top of the summit. Ropes are normally fixed from 5800m to 6100m and from 6500 m to 7500m.
The first attempt on Makalu was made by an American team led by William Siri in the spring of 1954. After the failure of their attempt at the Cho Oyo expedition, Edmund Hillary and Shipton attempted to climb on Makalu in 1951. Makalu West Face route is very adventurous as well as a bit dangerous.
High Mountain Himalaya Treks and Expedition Pvt. Ltd provides all necessary infrastructures including permits for an expedition to Mount Makalu in season. If you need any information or want to book this trip, please feel free to contact us at info@highhimalayatreks.com
