Overview
Mt. Pumori (7,138 m) is the most popular 7,138 meters peak in the Himalayas of Nepal. It is situated above the most popular viewpoint of Kala Pathar (5,545 m) and just eight kilometers west of Mt. Everest in the Upper Khumbu region on the border of Nepal and Tibet. Pumori Climbing is considered to be technically challenging and requires climbers to be experienced as well as in good physical endurance. The climb follows the southeast buttress in its lower reaches before traversing through snow-slopes to reach a col to the East Ridge. To summit Mt. Pumori three camps above the base camp and fixing the rope is required. Climbing to Mt. Pumori is best suited only for those climbers who are physically strong and experienced in climbing higher peaks above 7000 m. in the Nepal Himalaya.
The Base camp of Mt. Pumori is set up at 5,300 m. and climbing begins through the glaciers for approx. 4 hours consistently until we reach Camp 1 at 5,700 m. From Camp 1 climbing to camp 2 at 6,200 m. begins through the narrow ridge. Likewise from camp 2 we further climb up passing through ice walls and crevasses until we reach camp 3 at an altitude of 6,480 m.
This section is prone to avalanches from big seracs hanging on the shoulder above the ridge. Passing through crevasses, and climbing up to Pumori cliff leads to the summit. For many mountaineers, Pumori is one of the peaks to test their technical skills and their passion for climbing 8,000 meters peaks in Nepal Himalayas in the future. This peak is worthy of any Himalayan alpinists. We take the safest and technically demanding South Ridge route to the summit of Mount Pumori.
We begin Pumori Expedition with a spectacular flight to Lukla and trek to Phakding. The next day we continue our trek through Sherpa villages, rhododendron, magnolia forest, and giant firs.
On the way to Namche bazaar you will be rewarded (if weather permits) with the first glimpse of Kusum Kanguru (6,360 m) Mt. Thamserku (6,618 m) Mt. Everest (8848.86 m) Mt. Lho Tse (8,516 m) and Mt. Ama Dablam (6,812 m). After you summit Mt. Pumori you will return to Lukla following the same route and fly back to Kathmandu.
